Q: WHAT IS OLD STYLE vs NEW STYLE?
We have had several questions about parts listed as both “Old Style” and “New Style”. First of all, either part will fit and work for you. The New Style parts are the latest designs and usually, that means enhancements have been made, but they fit basically the same way so don’t worry about that aspect of it. However, if you are burning corn only and have not upgraded to multi-fuel capability by installing our conversion kit, you do not need the improved auger. The improved auger is designed to handle wood pellets better but is not needed if you are burning corn. And remember this: simply changing the auger does not convert your corn burner to a multi-fuel stove!
We are trying to manage inventory to prevent you ordering an Old Style part that is out of stock, but it is possible that simultaneous orders could come in from various dealers so we cannot guarantee that we will not have to call you to advise you that your order for an Old Style part will have to be held as a back order, or changed to the New Style part. We apologize for that inconvenience if it happens to you.
If you cannot find the part you need or are not sure which part you need, please complete the short contact form. We usually respond to info requests within 24 hours.
DO YOU HAVE INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS FOR WOOD PELLET CONVERSION KITS?
We hope to eventually have pictures and/or videos to help you with installation of your Conversion Kit, meanwhile, here are copies of the install instructions that come with your kit.
WILL THE AMAIZABLAZE WOOD PELLET CONVERSION KIT WORK ON MY COPYCAT STOVE?
There have been many copies of the original Amaizablaze 2100, 4100, and 7100 under various names. Since they are copies,we have no information on any changes the other manufacturers may have made, Amaizablaze cannot with certainty guarantee that our Conversion Kit will exactly fit. There are also some Facebook posts and posts on hearth products sites that say that all you need is a new firepot and auger. That is definitely not true.
Here is what has to happen:
What a conversion kit has to do is change the combustion air flow from a positive pressure flow to negative pressure flow. Corn burns great with the positive pressure air flow and since it is more difficult to combust, there is little to no issue of corn combusting in the drop tube and auger shaft. It works great! Positive pressure air flow means that there is a likelihood of at least a small amount of exhaust air escaping via up the drop tube, through the auger shaft, and into the hopper. With corn, no problem. If the normal exhaust flow is interrupted/partially blocked, you will see ‘sweating’ inside the corn hopper and that tells you there is an exhaust gas blockage somewhere….so needs cleaning out. And of course, the exhaust from corn is water vapor and CO2, what you breath out with every breath, so harmless.
Wood pellets combust much easier than corn. Therefore, in the positive pressure corn burner they may ignite wood pellets in the drop tube, in the auger shaft, and even into the hopper where they smolder and smoke. This is called a ‘backfire’. Any stove that uses positive pressure combustion air and exhaust gas is in danger of a backfire. This is why simply changing a few parts will never safely suffice. The exhaust gas from burning pellets and the smoke from smoldering pellets can smoke up your house or even cause a fire.
The Amaizablaze wood pellet conversion system calls for uninstalling the internal combustion air blower and sealing off its previous location on the airflow tube, adjusting the airflow adjustment screw, and most importantly, providing a new vent system with the blower on the outside of the stove. On a direct vent system, the blower is outside the building in the exhaust cap. In a vertical install, it is in the vertical kit outside and on top of the back of the stove. Therefore, the air is being sucked through the stove (ie negative pressure) and exhausted outside. Any leakage of air flow through the hopper, auger tube, and drop tube is minimal, but with this negative pressure air flow, it is flowing toward the combustion chamber and out through the external combustion blower. You could say that a corn burner uses an internal combustion air blower and a converted wood pellet burner uses an external exhaust gas blower.
Conversion of a corn stove to wood pellets by install of the full conversion kit is the only safe method and it maintains the high efficiency you want from your pellet stove. Corn burns fine in a converted stove as well.
Below are the links to the Amaizablaze Conversion Kit for the Amaizablaze 4100 Iroquois. Depending on changes made by the other manufacturer, you will learn whether the kit works on your stove. You may have a high probability of success, since you will be removing whatever internal combustion air blower the other manufacturer used and then adding the negative draft system, which is external to the stove. You might consider adding the rheostat to control the external blower speed to enable you to adjust to the perfect air flow for your stove.
We do not normally accept returns of any electronic parts (like blower motors), but if you receive the kit and see that the install will just not work we will work something out. It would have to be uninstalled, never powered up, basically still new as received to allow a return. I suggest starting with one kit, then if it works as you hope, add the other two.
4100 Direct Vent Negative Draft Kit: https://americasharvestenergy.com/product/k-4090-4100-iroquois-conversion-kit-to-negative-draft-direct-vent-6-exhaust/
4100 Vertical flu or fireplace Kit: https://americasharvestenergy.com/product/k-4090v-4100-iroquois-conversion-kit-to-negative-draft-vertical-vent-exhaust/
Rheostat control for external/negative air flow motor: https://americasharvestenergy.com/product/k-7074-combustion-blower-rheostat-kit-4100/
To search for wood pellet conversion kits for other Amaizablaze stoves, go to our parts page and enter ‘conversion’ in the search window:
https://americasharvestenergy.com/product-category/products/parts/
Never hesitate to contact us if you need more information.
Hi T.N. Yes. You can use dry graphite or Never Seize on the auger/bushing connection. You may want to disconnect the auger from the motor drive shaft, sand and clean up the shaft and the inside of the bushing, then lubricate. It is recommended that the joint be lubricated once a month during the winter or during periods of constant use.
It is important that you never use a liquid lubricant on that joint. The oil attracts dust from the corn and actually can cause the bushing to wear prematurely, or completely lock up and damage/burn out your auger motor.
Here is a link to recommended lubricants on the website. I apologize there are no pictures, but maybe the quantities will help you in comparing pricing to local hardware or auto parts stores.
https://americasharvestenergy.com/product-category/products/parts/lubessealers/
Thank you for the question!
Have a great day!
I have a amazablaze 7100. The speed control no longer adjustment the speed of feed. Seems to be stuck in 10 or close to that. What part do I need to order. Thanks
Any instructions on how to install heat duct adapter kit on 7100?
Hi Craig,
The instructions are in the box. Basically, the secondary heat exchanger blower on top that currently is hinged to allow opening is removed, the blower is relocated to a new housing that comes with the kit, the rectangular cover underneath the current blower housing is removed, and the new duct then fits perfectly on top of the stove. …hope that helps.
Gary
Hi I have a model 2100 I went and blew the thing out and now when I turn it on the auger doesn’t work unless I hold the prime button and the two bottom fans I think that’s for the room air they do not spin anymore either but the tooth top fans work so I’m just wondering what I did wrong and what I need to replace thank you in advance
Hi Dan,
This is likely a timer issue. The auger motor obviously works and the combustion blower should be the first thing, first blower you hear. It runs when the stove is in the start mode. The auger is enabled when the temp reaches 95 degrees in the combustion chamber.
It’s possible the 95 degree thermo-disc is faulty. To test it, if you are comfortable with working with electricity, unplug the stove, locate the thermo-discs by removing the right side panel, and place a jumper wire or connect the two wired to the thermo-disc. That bypasses the disc and and enables the auger. When the heat in the combustion chamber rises, the second 110 degree thermo-disc enables the room blowers. So with the thermo-discs byassed, the auger and room blower should come on. This is a fairly easy test. If things still don’t work, replace the thermo-discs.
If the thermo-discs prove to be good, you likely need to replace the timer. The ‘message’ from the thermo-discs is probably not getting through the off timer to the other components.
Hope that helps!
Picked up a used 7100 corn stove, fired up for the first time after good cleaning. Auger and combustion blower come on after coming up to temp however main room blower and secondary room air motors do not. Found the 110 Deg thermodisc thinking it was that but I just tested it and that seems fine. Where is the secondary 95 deg thermodisc located, the one between 17 & 22 in the wiring diagram?
Hi Phillip, it is right beside or near the other thermo-disc.
I have an Amaizablaze 7100 and it’s been running fine until the last couple days the auger gets jammed. I’ve changed corn and I have cleaned out the auger multiple times as best I can and after it runs good for about 2 hours and then jams again. I am unsure why to do to stop this from happening. This is my only source of heat for the winter.
Hi Breanna,
There is likely a problem with the auger itself. It could be that the auger has become sligtly warped and so only hangs up periodically. Or, the auger tube could be worn. Sometimes wear on either end of the auger tube or at the point where the corn feeds in from the hopper can create a small sliver of metal that can move and jam the auger. I recommend removing the auger, inspect both the auger and the auger tube for any kind of obstruction.
It is less likely, but it’s also possible that one of the gears in the auger motor gear box has worn and lost a tooth or two. That could also cause the auger to stop or hang up.
Lastly, it is possible that the auger motor/gear box has worn and one of the gears has lost a tooth or two, or is loose allowing it to jam or miss and then the auger stops.
So, I would say inspect first, then if nothing obvious can be found, consider a new auger motor, auger, and bushing kit.
Thank you for checking in!
Any info you have on the kit for the 7100 to connect to my homes duct work would be helpful? what is involved, what parts come with it?
HiLarry,
The ductwork adapter kit comes with all you need to connect to your existing ducts. You will remove the existing housing on the top of your stove, remove the secondary blower, then install the secondary blower in the new housing, connect the duct adapter, then connect to the adapter’s 14 inch opening to run a duct into your existing ducts. Some find it works best to also install an automatic damper in the new duct that closes in the absence of heat from the stove. That prevents any reverse flow when the stove is not operational. Or, of course, you could install a manual damper and close it whenever not using the stove (like in summer). I hope that helps!
Thank you for checking in!